36 hours in St. Louis.. part 2

36 Hours in St. Louis….part 2

St Louis is the quintessential American city. Its history has defined and pointed the directions that we have moved as a nation. It is a city built at a time to express the optimism of a country looking towards the future. From the waterfront Gateway Arch, to Forest Park, the site of the 1904 Worlds Fair, the Fabulous Fox theatre, Busch Stadium, or the many neighborhoods and restaurants, St. Louis has a distinctly American flavor.

It is a city of great culture, and vitality supporting a major American orchestra, several first rate professional theatre companies, art museums, sports teams, parks, interesting architecture, neighborhoods, and a well planned transit system.

I flew into St. Louis, (just over 2 hours non-stop from NY), and was immediately impressed with the Metro-Link rail system connecting the airport directly into downtown.

It’s an efficient light rail system with very readable maps running from early morning to very late in the evening, with easy connections to the bus system. No need for a car on any visit.

From the airport, the Metro dropped me literally at the back door of my hotel, the St. Louis Union Station Doubletree Hilton.

The hotel is quite literally the former Train Station terminal opened in 1894, and one of the most beautiful public spaces in America.

The last rain to depart the station was in 1974. Since then $30 million was spent in detailed restoration. Stained glass windows, depict the 3 largest train stations at the time… (San Francisco, NY Penn station, and St. Louis). A barrel vaulted ceiling soars 65 feet high, filled with green glazed terra cotta bricks, gold leaf arches, three dimensional carvings, and at the top of both ends of the hall, art nouveau statues of ladies holding ornamental lanterns looking down on the masses below.

The hall itself is wonderfully comfortable with couches, chairs and tables in various configurations for intimate chats or full on conversations. The restoration work has been impeccable, and the lounge that fills the hall is a very comfortable way to spend an evening. This is especially true, as in the evenings the barrel arches become a show unto themselves with quite an intricate light presentation.

As yet another point of St. Louis history, it was from track 32 in the station that the famous photograph was taken of Harry Truman holding up the newspaper incorrectly stating “Dewey defeats Truman”.

The hotel itself is very comfortable, comparatively affordable, centrally located, and the staff could not be more accommodating.

THE ARCH

Out of the hotel and just down on the waterfront stands the Gateway Arch. It is sometimes good to revisit those places where “everyone” goes. In this case, the Arch, looking sleek and slender in the sun, holds much more within. Designed by Finnish American Eero Saarinen, it is the tallest manmade monument in the Western Hemisphere. It opened in 1968.

What people don’t realize is that its planning dates back to the 1930s, and was highly opposed as impractical and a waste of money. It was only through intervention by the Federal govt. and President Roosevelt in 1934 that the “United States Territorial Expansion Memorial Commission” came about.

The Arch has become not only the symbol of St. Louis, but is recognized the world over as an American icon. Perhaps something to think about next time a work of public Art is being bandied about as a “waste of money”.

The scale of the design, 650 ft. in height, is much more massive than one would first guess, and the ride inside of the arch to the top is itself a treat. Each pod would make an early Apollo space capsule proud. You crawl through a small door, with 3 others in cramped quarters, only a small window slit looking into the interior of the tower. It creaks and groans, as it shifts in its obtuse angles curving its way to top. Stepping out with no other surrounding buildings you are well aware of the height and the expansive country around you.

The meaning “gateway” to the West becomes all too apparent. You peer through rectangular windows straight down to the Mississippi river. To your left is the Eads bridge, the first ribbed steel arch bridge in the country. Opened in 1874, yet another example of the pioneering spirit of St. Louis. Behind you is all of St. Louis including the historic “old courthouse”.

On the ground floor within the foundation of the Arch, there is more to experience. Films chronicling the building of the Arch, as well as a very well made history of Lewis and Clark’s expedition compliment a museum of “Westward Expansion”.

THE OLD COURTHOUSE

Across the street from the Arch is the historic “Old Courthouse” where several monumental American decisions were decided. The interior is now a museum depicting these cases that have affected us all.

Harriet and Dred Scott sued for their freedom at this courthouse.

The “Dred Scott” decision, (African Americans, whether free or not, could not be American citizens) became a catalyst for the Civil War.

Virginia Minor founded the Woman Suffrage Association in 1867, two years before Susan B. Anthony’s National Woman’s Suffrage Assoc. In 1872, Minor was refused the ability to register to vote, and brought a civil suit, which found its way to the US Supreme Court forging a path not only to women’s rights, but to the voting rights as well.

Walking back to the hotel stop by BUSCH STADIUM opened in 2006. It’s a classically designed ballpark right downtown, seating 46,000, and home to the St. Louis Cardinals.

Handsomely designed, tours are available.

Metro Link stops practically right at the stadium.

THE MUNY

An absolute must is a visit to the Muny. A beloved American institution dating back almost 100 years, it is without a doubt one of the most intimate 11,000 seat theatres you will ever find.

Wherever the seat, there is a connection to the stage. Giant fans quietly spin and keep the air circulating. Lighting and set designs are by some of the best in the country, and the casts are literally Broadway caliber.

There is nothing like sitting outside, watching a first class cast, and orchestra perform a great musical in this unique space.

An evening at the Muny is like a summer picnic during the 4th of July.

Its earliest beginnings date back to 1914-1916, only 10 years after the famous St. Louis Worlds Fair which defined America as an international center.

A production of “As You Like It” was produced by Margaret Anglin, starring Sydney Greenstreet, and with a local cast of over 1000!

By 1919, the first municipally owned outdoor theatre in United States was born.

To this day, the “Muny” produces outdoors musicals on a grand scale, rehearsing each show approximately 11 days, with tech rehearsals on the outdoor stage between midnight and five o’clock in the morning. Each show runs from Monday–Sunday. Members of the St. Louis symphony typically make up the orchestra, while some of the best stars, directors and designers of the Broadway theatre create the productions which appear on the stage.

The Muny is a distinctly “democratic” theatre, where each night 1000 free tickets are distributed on a first come first serve basis. A rare camaraderie exists once you enter the amphitheater. In the best of American traditions, you make many friends along the way.

On this trip I was able to see “Hello Dolly” with the brilliant Tony Award winner Beth Leavel as “Dolly”, and John O’Hurley as VanderGelder.

The set was designed by the always artistically fulfilling Michael Schweikardt.

Michael always seems to know how to take a central idea, which becomes the overriding theme for the show. In this case a ground row of NY at the turn of the last century, beautifully detailed in each of its buildings, including the elevated train leading to Yonkers. Even sitting outdoors it pulled you into its beaux arts world.

The show was directed by Rob Ruggiero, who seems to be having a hit wherever he goes. Giving credit where it is due, Rob has the ability of taking a show and finding its “space” whether a small room like Theatreworks, his theatre in Hartford, placing “Showboat” on the intimate Goodspeed stage, or a spectacle like “Dolly” at the Muny.

The musical direction was by James Moore who paced the show with a great sense of style, and was played with panache by the Muny Orchestra.

At the Muny, an atmosphere of fun permeates the property. From the moment you step onto the lawn. People are wanting to be helpful. The onsite restaurant is actually not bad with advance reservations advised.

The Gardens surrounding the Muny as part of Forest Park are great to stroll through.

A very fun way to spend an elegant, and lively evening.

This past season included fresh titles such as Billy Elliot, Adams Family, Seussical, Tarzan, as well as the classic Porgy and Bess and Dolly.

Congratulations to Mike Isaacson for revitalizing and raising the Artistic stakes of this great institution.

FOREST PARK,MISSOURI HISTORY MUSEUM, and the

ST. LOUIS ART MUSEUM

The heart of St, Louis is Forest Park. 1371 acres of meadows, trees, paths, gardens, and housing the Muny, the St Louis Zoo, 3 museums, a first rate tennis center, and much more.

It is a handsome urban park first created in 1874. By the 1890s the streetcars were bringing over 3 million visitors a year. The zoo opened in 1910.

The History museum is especially fascinating housing an ongoing exhibit about the 1904 Worlds Fair. The first international fair in America truly putting St. Louis and the US on the map as an international destination.

Originally conceived as a tribute to the 1803 Louisiana Purchase, the 1904 Fair hosted 62 nations, and representations from 43 of the 45 states. Architects included Cass Gilbert, who designed the Woolworth Building in NYC the first skyscraper. It was known as the “Cathedral of Commerce” .

The Fair was built on a grand Beaux Arts scale, with fountains, lagoons, and exotic exhibits. Over 20 Million people visited the fair during the course of a year.

For the first time peanut butter, the ice cream cone, iced tea, cotton candy, Dr. Pepper, and puffed wheat were tasted and popularized.

It would be very easy to take an entire day and evening just to explore all that Forest Park offers.

The Palace of Fine Arts was based on the baths of Caracalla and today serves as the St. Louis Art Museum.

It is a first rate “Boutique” museum, handsome building, with great curatorial choices and a wide variety of exhibits.

MAX BECKMANN

One of my rediscoveries at the museum was Max Beckmann, the German Expressionist. Born in Leipzig, his work was influenced by his stint as a medical orderly during the first world war. Figure and space became transformed, as he himself delved deeper into philosophy and mysticism. Through the 1920s he was highly successful until the rise of the Nazi regime, who condemned his work as Degenerate, and labeled him a “Cultural Bolshevik”.

First living in Amsterdam for 10 years, he ultimately found his way to the US, where the director of the St. Louis museum invited him to teach at Washington Univ. It was in St, Louis Beckmann found his patron, Morton D, May, and was able to rebuild his career.

He ultimately moved to NY living on West 69th street and died of a heart attack on his way to visit one of his paintings at the Met.

His work is intense, physical, sexual, and rich in color and texture. Themes range from “The Sinking of the Titanic” to metaphysical subjects such as “The Dream”.

In “The Dream” a man without hands stands on a ladder holding a fish, beside a blind beggar playing two instruments. A drunk woman plays a cello in front of a legless man on crutches. At the center stands an innocent blonde girl… the only character with eyes open.

It is through development of his own mythologies, and symbols that Beckmann created a world unto himself, and one in which you can stare for hours feeling it steep inside you.

Looking at a Beckmann painting is much like looking at a work of medieval stained glass, and finding new details every time.

It is human, sometimes pained, sometimes voluptuous, but always real.

RESTAURANTS, NEIGHBORHOODS , MUSIC AND BEER

St. Louis is rich in all that it inhabits. In 36 hours one only can barely scratch the surface. It is a city of variety in its neighborhoods, great restaurants, culture, sports and Busch Beer.

By calling ahead, I found hotels to be negotiable, the people of the city friendly, the transit system works well, it has an ongoing and fascinating history, and it has helped define who we are as a country.

St. Louis may not be the first thought that comes to mind for a quick getaway…. But as with any of the best gifts, it is full of delightful surprises.